Showing posts with label Sewing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Sewing. Show all posts

Monday, October 9, 2023

Coffin Quilt & Quilt Sizes

 My Process
 Assembly is English Paper Piecing. Think of the coffins in columns, with the far-left as column 1. Column 1 should have all coffins assembled head-up (the top of one coffin is sewn to the bottom of the one above it). Colum 2 should have all coffins head-down. Repeat, with even-numbered columns right side up and odd columns upside down.

I have put together a kit that contains a bunch of fabric that will fit around the paper pieces and have divided those little pieces into color groups just for ease on every 4th sewing day.

Day 1: Sew 9 coffins
Day 2: Sew 9 coffins and sew them to Day 1
Day 3: Sew 9 coffins
Day 4: Sew 9 coffins and sew them to day 3 > Sew days 1&2 to days 3&4 > Sew to the Bigger Working Piece > Sew to the Body (as applicable) > Plan the next 4 days of coffins and document them via pictures for reference

So what does this mean?

Sew X coffins = wrap fabric around paper, tack it in place, sew coffins together into a 3x3 block
Sew them to Day X = Sew the 3x3 block to the one previous, either next to or below
Sew days X to Y = Sew your 3x6 blocks together
The Bigger Working Piece = A piece that does not fit onto the Body yet but that is larger than Days 1-4
The Body = The quilt itself

FOR EXAMPLE ... Today is my second Day 4. My "Body" is currently a 6x6 patch of coffins. My working piece is a 3x6 from days 1-2. I also have a 3x3 from yesterday and a set of 9 coffins to sew today. I will sew the 9 coffins, sew them to the 3x3 to get a new 3x6, sew the two 3x6 pieces together to get a new 6x6, and I will sew the new 6x6 to the first 6x6 to make the Body bigger. I will then move on to Planning.

Planning is another beast. I go through the pieces of fabric that I have cut and I lay them out next to the rest of the quilt to ensure that I'm not putting a bunch of the same pieces together or too near each other. I then stack them into batches of 9 starting in the upper left and going down. As of the mistake on 10/19, I am putting a note on each stack that either says "Up" or "Down" so that I know how to orient the upper-left of the daily coffins. Every other 3x3 block is "upside down" when going across, and I goofed that and had to re-plan this week's Day 4 coffins.

Measurements and Template
How-to on the template: https://www.tiktok.com/@garbage_arts/video/7242431804471397674

Basically it's a vertical rectangle 2.75"x1". 1" down from the top, measure out .25" on either side and make a mark. Connect the corners to those marks to make a coffin shape. I have 1/4" graph paper and used that to make a sheet of templates that I can copy as needed. On graph paper, the coffin looks like this:


I have found it helpful when folding and tacking the fabric around the templates to draw a very visible line (blue gel pen works great) from one "elbow" to the other so that I know where the points need to be.

According to the measurements from Sylvia's Quilt Depot, I would need the following number of coffins for each size quilt. For length I am dividing the quilt length by the length of the coffins (2.75 inches). That gets us the "Down" column. For the width I am adding the width at the meeting point of the firs and second columns (so 1 inch plus 1.5 inches to get 2.5 inches) and then dividing the width of the quilt by that, then multiplying by 2. This gets us the "Across" column. The "Coffins Needed" column is Down times Across. All numbers (except Approx. Hours) are rounded up to the next whole number.

Approx. Hours was calculated thusly: It took all of Star Wars Ep1: The Phantom Menace to make and stitch together 9 coffins. SW E1: TPM is about 136 minutes long. (9/136)x60 gets me to 3.97 coffins per hour, which I rounded up to 4. Coffins Needed/4 rounded up or down as necessary gets us the Approx. Hours column.

I have found that 63 coffins, if taking the center coffins out as soon as they are available, will last me for 12 days. I can run off 18 coffins to a sheet of 8.5"x11" paper, so 7 sheets of paper gets me 24 days of coffins. This math may change as my edges get longer, but as of this edit (11/1/23) I have a sinus infection and cannot math.




Quilt Size Guidelines from Sylvia's Quilt Depot



Monday, October 2, 2023

AB Corset Patterns

 https://www.dropbox.com/sh/k5103ttkylbydmc/AABvnGHhQarqaDtoyv1oAKWba/CORSETS?dl=0&subfolder_nav_tracking=1

Monday, September 25, 2023

Thursday, August 3, 2023

Ursula 2.0

 My lovely husband put a bug in my brain. I put on my FINISHED blue mermaid 25-yard skirt to go to the fabric store and he said "Now you can do Ursula things!" I said "Wrong color" and then got slammed into a costume idea so freaking hard my head is still spinning.

So the base of it is:
- Another 25 yard skirt
- A sweetheart-neckline corset
- The seashell necklace from the first Ursula costume
- Silver and purple jewelry?

I haven't really thought of accessories yet, or the hair situation, but that'll come together eventually.

First the skirt, since I already have the fabric - 4.5 yards of bleached muslin, 118" wide.

I already know the math, etc. I need to figure out how I want to dye it.

Option 1: Dip-dye. Black on top, purple on bottom, to get the "black octopus skin + purple under-tentacle" thing. Could be easy, but I've never dip-dyed and it seems like work. It's too hot here to think about that much work right now.

Option 2: More Shibori! But not the one I used for the blue skirt. That was a pain in the butt. No, this time it would be Kumo Shibori, where a small object is wrapped up and then tied really tight. I'd want it all around the bottom with a few places where they kinda... mounded up? Toward the hips? Dye purple all over, tie, over-dye black.

Food for thought.

Moto Jacket

 I got a scooter! I'm taking a Motorcycle Course! I need a cool biker jacket!

Ok, so my idea of "cool biker jacket" and everyone else's might be a little different. I want mine in white with all the oil-slick metal trimmings and some hyper-shiny purple iridescent shoulder details for visibility.

Pattern: Gunnar Deathrage Midnight Moto - https://gunnardeatherage.com/shop-patterns/the-midnight-moto-jacketdigitalprint-at-home-sizes-32-46

Shoulder detail fabric - 1/3  yard: https://www.etsy.com/listing/1149409675/lavender-iridescent-chrome-reflective?click_key=5d9573b39822681aac8192c584f3a818d03400b9%3A1149409675&click_sum=09759c54&ref=user_profile&sts=1

Zipper pulls x7: These super-cute moon-and-star (Morrowind anyone?) ones, or these badass biker skull-and-snakes ones?

YKK Zipper x2 yards: https://tandyleather.com/products/10-nickel-plate-zipper-tape?variant=42916051583107&currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&srsltid=ASuE1wQ1nTes-rvM9SGdiYtf7rdHQAO8lLTrEOFvuQtVBkF0c597ExzQphM

Snaps for tabs & collar detail x8: https://www.etsy.com/listing/1418240688/20-sets-rainbow-caps-fashion-spring?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=iridescent+snaps&ref=sc_gallery-1-16&sts=1&plkey=71aecbac358ddc457e477c6d554f45a77ccaa485%3A1418240688

Dyneema Denim fabric in white for body of jacket - 3yd: https://www.therope-store.com/ripstop-by-the-roll-13-9-oz-moto-denim-with-dyneema-dded0089/

Rayon Challis for lining - 2yd: https://www.etsy.com/listing/1532314749/rayon-challis-100-rayon-garment-fabric?click_key=fd5409d27380551d993b6cccd21e131e27bacc9d%3A1532314749&click_sum=2a94da3b&ref=user_profile&frs=1

Reflective Piping for all external seams: https://www.amazon.com/Silver-Reflective-Piping-Fabric-20meters/dp/B077QX6BCV/ref=asc_df_B077QX6BCV/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241925305119&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6224368996019793576&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9026567&hvtargid=pla-471220636295&psc=1

Back Armor: https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/axial-ax1-back-protector

Shoulder armor: https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/axial-ax2-shoulder-armor?sku_id=10164401

Elbow armor: https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/axial-ax2-elbow-knee-armor?sku_id=10164402

So... How much does this cost? Well, in materials it breaks down to $251.31 if you parcel every little bit out and don't count shipping or assembly. But the zipper pulls, zipper, snaps, and shoulder detail fabric all come in a higher quantity than needed. Overall the supplies and shipping will be $347.69  with shipping and tax included.

A quick search for "dyneema motorcycle jacket" turns up prices from $189.99-$480.00.

Really, buying or making a motorcycle jacket comes out to about the same cost. Cool!

See chart for calculations here:

Item

Quantity

Cost Per

Total Cost

Pattern

1

10

 $    10.00

Lining

2

9.95

 $    19.90

Shoulder

0.33

22.95

 $       7.57

Fabric

3

38

 $  114.00

Zipper

1.77

5.663333

 $    10.02

Zip Pulls

7

1.248

 $       8.74

Snaps

8

0.2645

 $       2.12

Piping

1

13.99

 $    13.99

Back Armor

1

24.99

 $    24.99

Shoulder Armor

1

19.99

 $    19.99

Elbow Armor

1

19.99

 $    19.99

Total

 $  251.31

But I actually have to buy…

Shipping

Tax

Pattern

1

10

0

0

 $    10.00

Lining

2

9.95

5.65

1.69

 $    27.24

Shoulder

1

22.95

13.4

1.95

 $    38.30

Fabric

3

38

0

8

 $  122.00

Zipper

1

16.99

8

1.45

 $    26.44

Zip Pulls

10

1.248

5.31

1.06

 $    18.85

Snaps

20

0.2645

5.99

1.1

 $    12.38

Piping

1

13.99

0

0

 $    13.99

Back Armor

1

24.99

7.99

5.53

 $    38.51

Shoulder Armor

1

19.99

0

0

 $    19.99

Elbow Armor

1

19.99

0

0

 $    19.99

Total

 $  347.69

 

If the jacket is made with 10oz white bull denim and non-YKK zippers, it comes out to ~$165.98 with shipping and tax included.

Wednesday, July 12, 2023

New Plans?

 Last post was about what I have done, cancelled, and modified from my last "priority list." Let's see what's still there and make a new plan. This one probably won't be followed either, but hey. It's nice to be able to mark stuff off when I do finish it.

The List As Written:

I've removed the things that were finished or cancelled.
  1. Christmas Sock UFO - needs a back piece, liner, and fur trim. Gift to Mom?
  2. Forepart UFO - stitch on bottom row of hexies and lace
  3. Solis Shirt - Mockup w/o buttons & then black schloopy fabric (or sewing supplies fabric - or both) & stash buttons
  4. Plague Bodice UFO - Back edges turn under & hand stitch, finish cutting/tipping/placing bones, top binding, grommets
  5. Chelsea Shirt - white linen w/ cotton thread, dye later?, brown linen if enough left after six-gore skirt (see #9)
  6. Bench Covers UFO - elastic casing, elastic, & tack in foam. Deliver to K
  7. Six-gore skirt - draft, mockup, practice invisible zippers, then brown linen
  8. Blue bear UFO - stitch on nose, close up back, put in gift box
  9. Ash Camisol - white linen
Non-prioritized plans:
  1. Mood Oleander Dress - floral fabric from Canton
  2. K Shorts
  3. Mood Winterberry Cape - PRIORITY as soon as fabric arrives, mockup of shoulders required
  4. Duffel Bag - fabric chosen, need fusible foam & woven interfacings
  5. Tudoro
  6. Scottish Lass
  7. Dice bag
  8. Mermaid
  9. Maker Apron
  10. Jeans?
  11. Bras?

The New List:

  1. Dungeon Master Work
    1. Finish cloak edges
    2. Mend jeans
  2. Seestar Work - DONE!!!
    1. Bone shaman costume (scheduled for August)
  3. Scottish Lasses
    1. Bodice/Stomacher (also cut bones for Plague Bodice) - Started July 2023, needed to order bones & tips.
    2. Black Skirt
    3. Brown Skirt
    4. Blue Forepart
    5. Buchanan Forepart
    6. Blue hat
    7. Buchanan hat
  4. Swimsuit
    1. Mock up
    2. Make top
    3. Make bottom
  5. Plague bodice UFO
    1. Set bones
    2. Bind
    3. Grommets
  6. Bench Covers UFO
    1. Elastic Casings
    2. Elastic
    3. Delivery
  7. K Shorts
    1. Cut
    2. Sew
    3. Deliver
  8. Oleander Dress (Canton fabric)
    1. Tape pattern
    2. Mock-up bodice
    3. Sew dress
  9. Sleepy Belly Dancer Sleeves UFO
    1. Sew
    2. Deliver
  10. Winterberry Cape (size 18/20)
    1. Cut pattern
    2. Cut fabric
    3. Determine lining method - Counter-hemmed seams! Chonky but sturdy and won't allow the lining to sag nearly as bad as bagging it. Sets a shape well. Watch out with water around the silk - the dye bleeds!
    4. Sew
  11. Plague Forepart UFO
    1. Sew on last row of hexies and a backing
  12. Declic Shirt - Purple Fabric
    1. Modify pattern
    2. Cut
    3. Sew
  13. Mermaid
    1. Skirt - DONE!!!
      1. Press skirt fabric
      2. Determine gathering settings on Featherweight - Determined July 2023! Stitch length 10, gather foot set to 6.
      3. Sew skirt
      4. Hem
    2. Make net hip scarf
      1. Closure method
      2. Sew in beads
    3. Make top
      1. Chiton-style sleeveless
      2. Net cover
    4. Make belt?
    5. Make corset
      1. Chamomile cincher draft
      2. Sew
      3. Set latch busk
      4. Bind
      5. Set grommets
  14. Viking Revamp
    1. Make new underdress
    2. Make new shirt
    3. Dye
      1. Also dye corset laces
        1. Pirate corset
        2. Mermaid corset
    4. Make trim
    5. Trim shirt and dress
    6. Patch overdress
    7. Overlock pants
    8. Thread elastic in pants
  15. Christmas Sock UFO
    1. Back
    2. Lining
    3. Fur trim
  16. 10-gore Skirt
    1. Draft
    2. Mock up wasit/hips
    3. Determine lining/pocket method
    4. Sew
  17. Blue Bear UFO
    1. Stitch on nose
    2. Sew up back
  18. Tudoro
  19. Queen of Roses
  20. UFO Box
  21. Solis Shirt
  22. Chelsea Shirt
  23. Ash Camisole
  24. Scalloped Camisole
  25. Dice Bag
  26. Bra
  27. Jeans
  28. Duffel Bag
  29. Maker Apron
  30. Coverup
  31. Hubby Jeans
    1. Deconstruct originals
    2. Pattern originals
    3. Repair originals
    4. Sew new jeans
  32. Black Shawl
    1. Sew
    2. Deliver
  33. Cream Shawl
    1. Sew
    2. Mail

New Order?

 Back in December I posted an order in which I thought I would do things. Some time before that I posted a scheme to do a "new" and a "ufo" and alternate them. That hasn't necessarily been working, but I have managed to get a lot done.

Lets look at the December list and see where we are. Strikethrough is something I've removed from the plan, this highlight is something I've finished, this highlight is stuff I'm on the fence about, and this highlight is a plan that has been modified.

  1. Fleece Jedi Robe - already cut, needs sewn, faux felled seams
  2. Christmas Sock UFO - needs a back piece, liner, and fur trim. Gift to Mom?
  3. Emma Skirt - black stretch chambray (or black linen?), stash buttons
  4. Forepart UFO - stitch on bottom row of hexies and lace
  5. Solis Shirt - Mockup w/o buttons & then black schloopy fabric (or sewing supplies fabric - or both) & stash buttons
  6. Plague Bodice UFO - Back edges turn under & hand stitch, finish cutting/tipping/placing bones, top binding, grommets
  7. Chelsea Shirt - white linen w/ cotton thread, dye later?, brown linen if enough left after six-gore skirt (see #9)
  8. Bench Covers UFO - elastic casing, elastic, & tack in foam. Deliver to K
  9. Six-gore skirt - draft, mockup, practice invisible zippers, then brown linen
  10. Rose Shorts UFO - elastic
  11. Queen of Roses Chemise - dark green cotton gauze, model on white chemise
  12. Blue bear UFO - stitch on nose, close up back, put in gift box
  13. Ash Camisol - white linen
  14. Refer to box
  15. Peppermint Vintage Skirt - mockup, find a fun print fabric
Non-prioritized plans:
  1. Mood Oleander Dress - floral fabric from Canton
  2. K Shorts
  3. Mood Winterberry Cape - PRIORITY as soon as fabric arrives, mockup of shoulders required
  4. Mood Mallow blouse - cheap fabric first, don't know if I'm even gonna like it
  5. Duffel Bag - fabric chosen, need fusible foam & woven interfacings
  6. Silk Camisole
  7. Silver Camisole
  8. Tudoro
  9. Scottish Lass
  10. Dice bag
  11. Mermaid
  12. Landsknecht/Trossfrau
  13. Maker Apron
  14. Pink dress
  15. Jeans?
  16. Bras?

So let's talk about what I've finished.

The Jedi Robe:
Faux-felled seams to reduce bulk and cover seams. The husband loves it in the winter. The cat is using it as a pillow this summer.

Emma Skirt:
Added pockets. I made the first in the black stretch chambray to wear to CO for Christmas. It's easily one of my favorites and I wear it a lot. I made a second one in June out of some leftover burgundy linen fabric from another project, but I shortened the hem on it. Another comfy favorite.

Rose Shorts:
Super comfy, I've been wearing them a lot. All they needed was elastic and that's done now.

Daniel Shirts:
Not on the list, I was comissioned for two Renaissance shirts in May and made those up.

Teal Dress:
Not on the list, I made another Brassia (Mood) dress out of teal bamboo knit with a lower neckline and flutter sleeves.

Belly Dancer Outfits:
Not on the list, Leedle Seestar asked for a belly dancer outfit for herself. While we were fabric shopping we ended up picking out fabric for another ensemble for her friend. Both consisted of salwar pants and trimmed bralette tops with detachable sleeves. Seestar's had trimmed inset panels in the sides of the pants and trimmed slits up the tops of the arms.

Alien Rash Guard:
Not on the list, I wanted something to block the sun when Hubby and I went snorkeling on vacation earlier this year. It fits great, is very visible, and prevented all sunburn on the covered area.

Atelier Scammit: Declic shirt:
Not on the list, a wearable mockup of a free pattern from Atelier Scammit made from some brown mystery fabric. Super cute, only needs a minimal adjustment. I think I'm going to use this pattern for the fabric I got on the vacation mentioned above.

Now about what I'm on the fence about.

The duffel bag:
I just don't know if I care about this project. I've got the pattern and the materials, but I just don't know if I want to put in the effort right now.

The maker apron:
Again, I don't know if I care about it. It's a really cool pattern, but how much would I really use it?

The jeans:
I really do want to do this, but the whole process is pretty intimidating for some reason. Most of it is that I cannot wrap my head around how to sew a zipper fly.

Changed plans?

Six-Gore skirt:
No longer linen, no longer six gores. I want a 10-gore out of the same stuff I did the Declic shirt from. More VOLYOOM!

Celtic Lass:
Not just one! Making two, but the bodice will be reversible - black for one tartan, brown for the other. This is why the gored skirt is no longer a plan for linen.

And now for the cancellations.

Queen of Roses chemise:
I'm still doing Queen of Roses, but I'm going a different direction with the chemise. Taking a more "chiton" direction at the moment, and in a lighter color.

Peppermint Vintage Skirt:
This one might make it back on the list since I have the pattern cut out, but the Emma skirt is really doing it for me and they are VERY similar.

Mood Mallow blouse:
I just don't care about it anymore.

Camisoles:
This might might it back on the list later, but I need to find a good camisole pattern first. The one from Mood doesn't fit me right at all. I've got a pattern for one with a scalloped neck that looks promising, but it hasn't been taped yet.

Landsknecht/Trossfrau:
The hubby decided he's not that interested because of sleeves and layers. He doesn't deal well with heat. I may still do a Trossfrau ensemble in the future since I have the patterns, but this is no longer a priority.

Pink dress:
Honestly, I don't remember what this is about? Pink dress? What pink dress?

And that's it for the list from December. Stay tuned for Future Plans!

Monday, April 10, 2023

Flounce

 https://www.theshapesoffabric.com/2019/09/02/flounce-constructions-revealed/

Thursday, January 19, 2023

Swimsuit

I have decided that I'd like to make the Mood Fabrics Cordia Swimsuit.


For the rashguard I'm using McCall 7417, view D.

I will need the following:
- 1.5 yards solid-colored fabric for the rashguard
- 0.5 yards solid-colored fabric for the swimsuit
- 0.75 yards patterned fabric for the rashguard
- 1 yard patterned fabric for the swimsuit
- 0.5 yards powermesh for the swimsuit

In total I need:
- 2 yards solid-colored fabric
- 1.75 yards patterned fabric
- 0.5 yards powermesh

Now the big question: A, B, C, or D?

Swimsuit A:

This fabric from AlexLAFabrics on Etsy with Santorini Light Harmony Blu from Mood

Swimsuit B:

This alien fabric from AlexLAFabrics on Etsy with Santorini Light Acid Green from Mood

Swimsuit C:

This fun gingko leaf fabric from AlexLAFabrics on Etsy with Santorini Light Very Fuchsia from Mood

Swimsuit D:

This skull fabric from FabricLA on Etsy with Santorini Light Paprika from Mood