Dye Glossary

I like to dye fabric. A lot. It is a huge amount of fun. I've got a cart with all the chemicals and dye colors and a folder full of instructions and notes. But what if I lose the notes? What if I need them when I'm not at home? Well... here they are.

Glossary

Odd Terms Used in Dying

Calsolene Oil: Caustic, used in Fiber Reactive process. Breaks the surface tension of the water to allow for a more even dye.

Citric Acid: Used in Acid process. Helps acid dyes exhaust and fix to the fabric

Dye, Acid: Used on protein fibers such as silk and wool. Usually obtained in a powdered format.

Dye, Fiber Reactive: Used on natural fibers such as cotton and linen. Usually obtained in a powdered format.

Dye Vat: A container used for dying. Should allow enough room for fabric to flow freely during the dye process.

Exhaust: Acid dying event. The dye adheres to the fibers of the fabric during the dye process and the water becomes clear.

Paste: The first step to dissolving dye powder. Add a small amount of water to the powder to moisten all of it before adding enough water to dissolve. Prevents clumps of undissolved dye.

Pre-wash: Fabrics to be dyed should be washed in hot water with textile detergent to remove oils and residues that would prevent dye from adhering to the fibers.

Salt, dyer’s: Used in Fiber Reactive process. Ground to a powder for effortless dissolving. Salt in the dye bath reduces the electronegativity of the fabric and the dye and allows the dye to attach to the fibers more readily. Iodized, non-iodized, and pickling salt are all acceptable forms of salt for dying. Sea salt not recommended due to extra minerals.

Salt, Glauber’s: Used in Fiber Reactive process. For colors marked T (color mix includes turquoise) on the color chart, use Glauber’s salt in place of Dyer’s salt.

Scouring (wool): The removal of grease, oils, and dirt from wool fibers. Accomplished by soaking wool in warm, soapy water for several hours and then rinsing.

Shock/Felt (wool): The process of agitating and adjusting the temperature of wool too quickly, causing the wool fibers to react on a microscopic level to create a dense mat of fiber.

Soda Ash: Caustic, used in Fiber Reactive process. Fixes (makes permanent) the dye on the fabric.

Textile Detergent: Used in pre-wash to remove oils, fingerprints, and residues that would cause a splotchy dye job. Used after dying to wash out excess dye molecules that did not bind with the fibers of the fabric. Textile detergent does not contain added fragrances or softeners, which would interfere with the dye process.

Urea: A moisture drawing agent used to help fabric retain moisture during the curing process. Also used as a dissolving agent for pasting dye.

Vinegar: See Citric Acid