Dye Instructions - Acid Dye

I like to dye fabric. A lot. It is a huge amount of fun. I've got a cart with all the chemicals and dye colors and a folder full of instructions and notes. But what if I lose the notes? What if I need them when I'm not at home? Well... here they are.

Acid Dye Process

Silk, Wool*, and Nylon

1.      Pre-wash fabric in hot water with textile detergent.

™ ¼ cup detergent per load.

™ Some wools will require scouring.

2.      Fill the dye vat with warm water – 150 to 180 degrees Fahrenheit (F).

™ Silk chiffons do not take much space, and the “vat” can be a pot on the stove.

™ Do not dye more than 3.5 pounds of raw silk at once.

3.      Soak the fabric in water.

4.      Dissolve the dye in hot water.

™ Water should be at least 180 degrees F. May be boiling.

™ Use a small amount of water to wet the powder first, then add more water until dye is dissolved.

5.      Add the dissolved dye to the dye vat and stir.

6.      Add the fabric to the dye vat and stir frequently for 3-7 minutes.

7.      Raise the temperature.

™ 186 degrees F for silk.

™ 200 degrees F for wool – do not boil!

8.      Add vinegar OR dissolved citric acid to the dye bath.

™ Move the fabric to the side, pour in the vinegar/citric acid, stir the water, and then stir in the fabric.

9.      Maintain temperature and stir frequently for 30 minutes to 1 hour, or until the dye is exhausted.

™ The longer the fabric is in the vat, the deeper the colors.

™ If the dye is not exhausting, add more vinegar/citric acid, or a little salt.

10. Rinse in cool water until it runs almost clear.

11. Wash the fabric in cold or warm water with ¼ cup of textile detergent.

™ Never wash acid-dyed fabric in hot water as it will cause the colors to fade rapidly.

* Wool can shock and felt with abrupt temperature changes. If dying wool, gradually heat and cool the dye bath, and stir gently.

How Much Do I Use Per 1 pound of Dry Fabric?
Dye	1.5-2% of the weight of the fabric*
Citric Acid	1 TBSP
Vinegar	¼ cup

*Not an accurate method, but used by Dharma Trading Company. Less dye for lighter colors, more dye for darker colors. For Navy and Black, use 4% of the fabric weight.